Doggie needs a Thunderwrap

New Years eve is quickly approaching, and our dog is afraid of fireworks.  The vet says she is getting too old for drugs and we need to try other options.  As I was searching for ways to soothe her, I came across Thundershirts.  Does it work?  Will it work for my dog? I don't know yet, but as there is a sewing contest on PatternReview.com, I'm going to attempt to make one for good old Bonesy.

I have a pattern for dog shirts in my stash.  I thought it might be a good idea to start with it so I could get a basic idea on the shapes for dog garments.  I found it unnecessary, so don't go out and buy one if you're considering making a thunder shirt.  I ended up draping with some leftover stretch fabric to get a pattern I liked.  Here's what I ended up with...

There are basically two pieces.  The top flap, and the body.  I had to add in a decorative stripe 'cuz I was using up some Ponte scraps and didn't have enough brown.  Thus, I ended up with 8 pieces, 4 for the body and 4 more for the flap.

When cutting the pieces, I made sure the greatest stretch went around the body.  This allows for a snug wrap around doggie's body.

I finished sewing the pieces to construct the body piece using a small zigzag stitch so it will be able to stretch... and used it to refine the fit.  Luckily my dog was very cooperative and let me try the garment on her several times as I worked.

I applied Velcro to the right sides of the body and lining first, so there wouldn't be too much stitching showing on the outsides.  There was quite a bit of fitting as I decided where to place the Velcro.  I used chalk to mark the placement of the Velcro..

Then sewed them, right sides together... turned, pressed and edgestitched all around the edges with a triple stretch stitch.


Next, I worked on the flap using the same process.  when that was ready, I simply sewed it onto the back, again refitting as I went along.  I tried to get the stripe to match up, but when I wrap it tightly on her (as recommended) it doesn't.  That's okay.  I just hope it helps.

If it works, I'll probably make another one for her.  crossing my fingers...

April Sewing - KS Yoga pants and top

I'm a little late posting, but I did get these items done last month.  Using Kwik Sew 3115, I made 2 pairs of  long yoga pants, and 1 shorter one, and two tank tops.  :)   Here they are:

After making the mauve tank top, I decided to lower the neckline by about 1" and cut it slightly wider.  It's more comfortable.  I used the leftovers from the pants to trim the neckline and armholes and to add a strip across the bust since the grey fabric is a little thin and might become transparent if it gets wet. It was recycled from an old polo shirt that belonged to my husband.

For the shorter length pants, I sewed the leg openings much smaller than the pattern.  Mine are about 12". I tapered them from the hip to a couple inches below the knee to get them to a length I liked.  These are comfortable, but the brown fabric is slightly thinner than the other two.  It's still usable though, and very soft.

And yes, at least 3x a week I get in a short workout, though I got lazy this week and skipped workouts.  But next week, I'm adding 30 minute walk/jogs on alternating days.  Doctor's orders...  I need to get exercise.  And now I can use normal workout gear instead of  jeans. 

April was a productive month for workout gear.  May (nearly over, but I think I can squeeze in something...) will be either a set of undies, or a new knit top.  I found lots of  knits for 2.99/yd and am looking forward to making them into some summer tops, but I desperately need to replace some of my shabby undies. 

Fabric Stash Contest 2012

Okay... I entered PatternReview.com's 2012 fabric stash contest.  I have way too much fabric and I can't allow myself to buy anymore till I use a fair amount.  Unless it's for work of course....

So here's my plan so far...

Hot Patterns 1121  Cote D'Azur knit top and maybe dress.
I have a yard left of a wonderful rayon/cotton knit I bought and have made at least 3 tops from it.  I can squeeze in one more + a panty.  I also have 2 1/2 yards of some blue poly knit jersey with beautiful drape that would look lovely.  If the top works out well, I'll do the dress too. 

Hot Patterns 1091 Wong-Singh-Jones Marrakesh Drawstring Pants
Brown Linen I bought several months back... Pattern is ready, just haven't got around to doing it.  This one would use about 2 1/2 yards.
Oooooo... I just found some black raw silk too...  This must be ages old.  I don't even remember purchasing it.  This would make beautiful pants!  I might make it with this instead of the linen...The linen is not as soft as I thought it would be.

Simplicity 2860  Amazing Fit Pants
I know I have some black fabric somewhere...  It's a staple. If I can't find it, I still have more brown linen.  I'll make a pair for my daughter, maybe myself.  That'll use another 2 yards.

New Look 6952 Shirt with hidden button opening.
I have some light blue stretch poplin I bought some time ago.  It would be perfect and will use up another 11/2 yards.  And if I can squeeze the sleeveless version onto this beautiful linen print, I'll do that too.  I only have 1 yard of that one.

Hopeful Total:  10 1/2 yards

But then of course, that's only if work doesn't pick up.  Right now it's a little slow, but I still plan on working on some shop items in the mornings, along with a few items I'm working on for clients  (a set of aloha shirts and a vest).  I've been saving my personal sewing for afternoons, while I'm helping my son with homework.  His work area is right next to my sewing space... how convenient!  :)  So if I focus on my stuff while he works, I can get quite a bit done.

Happy sewing in 2012 everyone!

Knock-off Anthropologie skirt

I saw this skirt on Anthropologie.com and love the cute styling.  I don't wear skirts and have no reason to make it.  But I have daughters who are just the right age for some cute stuff like this...

So here we go... First I'll need to adapt the style to something a bit more casual.  It will be used for school, not work, so I need to "casualize" it.  I lowered the waistline and made an elastic facing.  Then I shortened it to above the knee length and turned the button band into a zippered opening.

First, I'm tracing off a pattern my daughter used for a plain elastic waist skirt that she made several months ago.  She used a pattern from the "Sew U" book by Wendy Mullin (designer for Simplicity pattern's Built by Wendy line).  My daughter was very pleased with the fit, but for this skirt, I'll leave the dart shaping in the back, and eliminate the front darts.  They will be drafted into the button band feature and side seams.

Unlike the Anthro skirt, I'll cut this skirt 1 1/2" below the waistline since my daughter pulls her skirts down about this much so it rests on the high hip anyway, and shorten the hem to just above her knee.   I'm starting with a 12" skirt, but added an extra 3".   Here's the draft so far:

Now to add the more difficult details.  I won't be working with the back piece anymore, it's fine the way it is.  The front piece needs those fancy features though.... Here, I transferred one dart to the side seams, and turned the other one into an opening for the zipper.

I think I'll make the button band about 1" wide.  The skirt is small, and so proportionately this should work.  I traced off the top portion of the dart to the point where I want the button band to end and made it 1" wide.  I also drew the button band onto the skirt front to make the next few steps a little easier to visualize.

To make the gathers that fall from the bottom of the button band, I drew 3 parrallel lines going from hem to the bottom of the band, and cut the sections out.  Then, uh.... how do I explain this... well, this is what I did...

At this point, I realized that I could easily attach the side front piece to the end of the gathered part thereby eliminating a seam in the gathers, so I taped them together. I'm wondering if there's enough gathering here... but I don't want to have too much bulk at the end of the button band. 

Then I got stuck... So I made a paper model to try and figure out how I was going to put the pieces together.  Here's it is:

Sorry, it's sideways.  I couldn't figure out how to turn it the right way. 

Anyway, I traced off facing pieces using the patterns, folding out the darts and adding seam allowances where necessary.  I also cut a strip a little over twice as long and 1 1/4" wide for the little gathery bit on the side of the zipper opening. 

Hmmm....  I'm thinking about making that top button practical instead of decorative. I'll need something to sew it to, so I added a facing(?) under the bottom zipper piece. Now... off to sewing. 

It was difficult to sew the zipper/gathers/ skirt bits together, but using my paper model, I figured out the sequence of putting it together.  I can't tell you how I put it together, not because it's a secret, more like I don't remember.  I just kept going and couldn't stop or it would break my sewing "train of thought." 

Here's some pictures of the details:

And here's the finished skirt with a body in it.  It's perfect for her spunkiness.  And she loves it.  Thats why we sew!

New Look 6889

SUPER SIMPLE!  If only I wore more dresses!    I made view D.  Originally, I made this pattern using silk twill.  According to measurement charts, I should cut a size 12.  But I cut the 10 after checking the finished measurements on the pattern tissue.  It was still baggy, so I took it in along the side seams by about 1" per side seam.  I could still pull it over my head, and it looks lots nicer.

Then I did it up in a tricot knit for a nightie.  I reduced the gathers along the neckline, pinching out about 1/2" total since I don't have much bust to fill it up.  Being that this fabric stretches, I also took in an additional 1" at the waist.   It gave it a little more shape and it's still comfortably loose.  Here's what the pattern looked like after I altered it.

Originally, I did follow the directions and used a self-fabric bias tape to make the neckline and armhole facings.  For the knit dress, I just did the fold over and sew thing.  Much faster, easier and still looks great.
I'm so sorry I don't have better pictures because this dress looks a lot better than the pictures I'm posting.  I'm considering doing a few tops in some knit fabric since the nightie came out so comfortable and it was very quick to put together.  I think it took about 2 hours from start to finish...

RIPincushion

 

Pin Cushie (19something - January 27,2011) 

 

I murdered my pincushion.  No wait... it was a mercy killing.  He was bleeding sawdust pretty badly, and had lost his strawberry long ago.  There was nothing else I could do.  So I finally put him to rest. The sewing needles he kept as prisoners, locked away deep in his gut, were removed and will find a new home.  The Needlecase will be glad to take most of them in as many of them don't want to be separated from their family of sewing needles. But the remainder will probably be placed in a new pincushion.  Pins will remain in an orphanage box until a suitable pincushion has been found (or made).  I can't believe he had swallowed so many needles.  No wonder his last days were miserable.

His remains will be buried in Sewing Trash Memorial Waste Bin.  The family requests no flower pins please.

Duvet Cover

I made these using STASH fabrics.  Can't believe I had the perfect stuff for the covers and never got around to doing it.  PR Stash contest saves the day!

This first comforter cover is for a Cal-King size bed and measures 88"x102".

And this one is for a twin size bed and measures 88" x 65"

Here's a quick tutorial on how to make a basic duvet cover (comforter cover).

First, take measurements of a cover you have.  Usually, you'll find that it's a few inches bigger than the comforter... sometimes up to 4" larger.  This allows for the "fluff" factor.  So if you don't have a cover but want to make one, take measurements and add a few inches.

My covers have pieced tops.  It's not hard to do,  just takes a little bit of math to add seam allowances where you piece.

It's easiest to place your button band along the bottom of the cover.  To do this, add an extra 2" to the bottom edge.  Then cut a facing piece about 2" wide by the length of the bottom edge.  I cut mine using the red fabric since I was nearly out of the taupe linen.    Make sure you interface the button band. Finish the facing edge.  Apply the facing to the bottom of the cover.  Turn, press and topstitch. Here is a view of the top and underside of the button band for the comforter cover top piece.

Make the buttonholes.  Here you can see what it looks like on the top and inside view.

The top of your cover is ready.  Now, I used a flat sheet to make the underside of the cover.  It's smooth, easy and it was already in my stash.  But... it doesn't quite match my comforter cover.  That's okay.  It doesn't bother me, and I'm saving the last of my fabric for the matchng pillow cover.   However, if you have a spare flat sheet that you'd like to use, but still have a some leftover fabric from the cover top, you could sew a border around your bottom piece using the face fabric. I didn't.  Sadly, I've now just about run out of that wonderful taupe linen. 

Anyway, to prepare the bottom section, measure the finished top piece and cut the same size piece, adding 2" for the button band.  At this point, if you want to add the border to the bottom piece, you could sew your extra fabric around the edges.  Cut 6" strips, fold 1/4" along one edge and topstitch it to the bottom piece, matching the cut edges.  You can simply overlap the corners, or get fancy and miter them.   Finish along the button edge, fold over 1 1/2" apply a strip of interfacing and stitch along the edges.  When that's done, place the top and bottom pieces right sides together and just sew around along three edges, leaving the bottom open.  Finish the edges, Give it a good pressing, sew the buttons on... and it's ready!

Kinda like sewing a giant bag... not so bad eh?

TIP:  If you have some card tables, place one behind your sewing machine, and one next to you.  It'll help support the huge amount of fabric you'll be working with.  Oh.. and it's best if the tables are either the same height or slightly lower than your sewing area.

Go to it!  It's such a rewarding project. And heck,  your bed won't mind if your stitching is slightly off or the fit is not perfect...Beds are forgiving like that...   :D

Duvet cover and Pillows

Thank God for the stash contest on PR.  I had all this wonderful fabric waiting to be made into something useful and FINALLY!  I got to work on it.

So here's a peek at my duvet cover made with a beautiful butterfly batik I found at Walmart quite a while ago... I can't remember when, but it must've been around the time I was into making shower curtains because there's only enough for a shower curtain.  I had this, plus another similar butterfly batik (I must've forgotten about buying the first one), several sashiko medallions I had made, and some leftover linen/cotton from my wedding.  The only thing I had to buy were 15 coconut buttons at 4/$1.00.  Wow.

Here are the pillows I made to match the duvet cover.

These have invisible zipper openings,  (see if you can find it in the first picture below), and the two different butterfly fabrics.  I also used the last of my navy linen to make the piping.  I had to use the second butterfly fabric when I ran out of the first.  But boy... I like it!  All of it was in my stash... including the zippers, so shopping my stash paid off!  :D  I'm happy!

I'm working on another set in barkcloth and linen for my daughter's bedroom and will include a better picture of my duvet cover and a simple tutorial next time.

Flanged Pillow Coverings

My daughter picked up the Owl panel in Japan about 9 years ago and I've been wanting to make it into a pillow cover since then.  Just never found the time or the perfect fabric.  Who knew that it was sitting right here in my stash since I got married 7 years ago!  The navy blue linen was made into table coverings for my reception, and I've been saving it in my stash.  I used some of it for curtains when we bought our home but the remainder was stashed away for a duvet cover (tutorial coming soon).

Anyway, here's a quick tutorial for simple flange pillows.    First, you'll need your fabric panel.  The edges should be prefinished.  I've already sewn my panel onto the pillow top piece.  It's cut 2" larger than the panel.  A 2" flange looks just right for an 18" pillow, and I'll be sewing the flange along the inner edge of the red border.  That'll give me a 1/2" seam allowance.

To cut the back pieces, add about 6" to half the measurement for overlap.  There will be a simple overlap in the back to insert the pillow.   You'll need 2 pieces.  Here are the pieces... not much to it eh?  :)

You will need to cut interfacing for the flange (in my case, 2 1/2" wide and whatever length it will be to cover the flange area).  You will also need to cut interfacing for your overlap.  It will help make keep the edge from stretching out and keep it crisp.  I cut mine about 2" x the width of the pillow.  Interfacings will be applied to the pillow back pieces.  Clip off the corners so the finished corners will be look crisp.  And finish the edge for the overlap.  Then adjust the pieces by laying the pillow backs onto the front piece, match the edges and fold over.  I simply folded about 2" and have about 2" overlapping.  The opening is not in the center, but I don't mind.  I prefer to have it below the center. 

After the prepping all the pieces, pin them right sides together and sew a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around the edges.  Press flat.

To make the flange,  I changed my top thread to red and used navy in the bobbin.  Then I sewed along the inner edge of the red border on the pillowtop, creating a 2" flange.  After that, I closed the overlap on the flange by hand sewing it shut.   This is the underside of the pillow. 

Helpful tip for turning corners neatly:
1)  Fold along the stitching lines first to form a nice folded corner.
2)  Lay something somewhat pointy, like a chopstick, at the corner, using it to support the corner before you turn it.
3)  Turn the corner, keeping the edges folded, and use the chopstick to push the point out.  Make sure the inner folds don't shift or it'll be like stuffing an elephant into a refrigerator. 
4)  Press.  Nice corners :)

New Look 6813

I like this pattern. With a few adjustments it ended up looking as good as the picture. The muslin was made in size 12/14/14, according to my measurements and it didn't really look like it fit well. So I downsized to a 10/12/12. Now it looks like the picture on the pattern.

I did have to make a few adjustments to the pattern in order to eliminate the gaping neckline. I pinched out little bits along the inner neckline, and flattened it to the edges. Kinda like making tiny darts. Since it's made in stretch fabric, it was easy enough to ease in the front and back pieces to the neck band. Here you can see the little pinches I made in the pattern:
And I added about an inch to the sleeve length. That's a simple adjustment...


The technique used for applying the neckline would've created a lot of bulk, so instead of turning the inside edges under and sewing through all those thicknesses, I left it flat and trimmed it down to 1/4" after top stitching the neckline. You could also just apply the neckline with your serger and eliminate a bunch of extra steps, but my serger is set up with light colored thread and I was too lazy to dig up darks.

Here's a detail of the topstitching. I like the blue on brown color combo...

And here's the finished top in brown.  Sorry about picture quality...

 And the second one made in Red, using some poly jersey.  I like the way it looks, but it's not going to work for hot weather...

 
Oh well... another TNT pattern to add to my collection.  
. 

Mitered Corner napkins

As promised, here are the mitered corner napkins I made using some leftover cotton fabric. These are my favorites and for our family, I think the smaller size works best.  We use them to wrap breakfast to eat on the road, and they are small enough for children to manage at regular mealtimes.  The bigger ones seem to end up knocking over milk cups... which kinda defeats the purpose of using napkins... mess prevention.

On the larger, dinner sized napkin, the central square measured 18" and the border is 2" wide.  It took about 1/3 yard 45" fabric in order to make this border, 2 strips, each cut 5" wide.
The smaller napkins are cut 10 1/2" with a 1 3/4" border.  I chose this size because I could get 4 napkins out of  1/3 yard of 44" fabric.  And I'm not sure how much yardage I used for the borders, but it took about 1 1/4 strips to make one small napkin.

Here's how I cut my small napkins:

Cut your central square whatever size you'd like.  In this case 10 1/2".  1" of this will be your seam allowances. (1/2" each side)

Cut your strips adding 4 times the length + twice the finished border width for each corner.  The width of the strip should be twice the depth of the border + 1".  For mine, it's 4 1/2"... 1 3/4" + 1 3/4" + 1" = 4 1/2"

Sew the strips together and press open your seam., then press the edges up 1/2" on both sides, and fold in half, matching edges and press flat.

Now, make the corners.  It's a bit hard to explain this, but you open your border and use the fold lines to construct your miters.  To make those miters, fold your border piece right sides together, matching the folds.
Then measure the width of your finished border  (1 3/4" here) along the top and bottom fold lines.  Mark.  Connect these marks to the center fold, forming a "V"... this forms the mitered corner when you're finished. Sew from one mark, up to the tip of the V, then down to the bottom mark. 

The measurement from corner to corner at the beginning of each V is 9 1/2"(see picture above).

Here's a close up.  The measurement from the vertical folded edge on the left side to the little mark where the start of the V is measures 1 3/4".  This is where you start sewing.  Don't sew into the seam allowances.

Trim the corners and close off the border.  From V to V on my napkin, it measure 9 1/2".

 Turn and press, making sure the folded edges match.  Now you've got a nice frame to work with.

Pin the center piece in, sandwiching it between the border edges.

 Sew it in.

The nicest detail here is the stitching used to sew the border on.  I used one of the decorative stitches on my machine and it came out looking very nice.  It also assured that the border on the opposite side would be caught in the sewing, even if I was slightly off.

And that's all folks!   Oh...  if you want the napkins to look good on both sides, simply double your center fabric and place them wrong sides together.  Nice!   These would make a great hostess gift for the holidays...  Gonna have to dig through my stash and see if I have some nice holiday prints!