Moulage 2nd draft

I'm trying again. Realizing I probably made some mistakes (probably from trying to take measurements alone in the middle of the night when I was tired and without a mirror), I did a more careful set of measurements in INCHES instead of using cm.

I found a few discrepancies in my first set, mainly that the measurement for my shoulder length was only 3 1/4". I had used the 10cm measurement given by KK in his book. Also, I found out that if I relaxed my shoulders, my end of shoulder measurement was now almost 1" less, and my figure width was reduced by 3/4" as well. That'll bring the BPs up for sure!
I also figured out a better way to get my across back measurement. Rather than distorting my body while trying to hold one end of the tape measure at the start point, I wrapped the tape measure around my shoulders and back, read the starting number at the first measuring point, and the ending number, then calculated what my back width was.

Okay... so here's the NEW moulage sloper I drafted.

The hip curve is still weird. But you'll see a huge difference in the shoulder slope and bust points. I'm not so saggy after all! LOL Now, I have to sew this one up and see if it's any better...

Zee Moulage ez constructed...

Boy... mine sure looks bad. But thanks to Ada on the PR message board, I think I can make it work. Here's what it looks like now...
ACK! I have no waist! I actually do have a little bit of waistline... it just doesn't show here. My bust points are way too low (my boobs are not that close to my waistline yet), and I think the armholes are a little too tight or something. Maybe it's the shoulders...



Now in the back, I need to adjust something... I think it's the slight sway back adjustment. I may have to add a little bit more space across the back.

Here's what I plan to try (thanks Ada!). Raise the bust points up by 1 1/2", straighten out the waist/hip side seam, take a tiny pinch at the small of the back for the sway back adjustment, shorten the shoulder length by 1/2", and maybe lower the shoulder point a little bit.

I need to remember that it's supposed to look like a sausage casing. I keep thinking it's too tight! Too tight! If you have any suggestions, please comment... I'd like to get this thing right.

Moulage drafting

I started working on a new moulage since my measurements have expanded :( just a little. Yes, I plan to lose that extra inch, (right...) but till then, I want something true to my current measurements so I can work on things RIGHT NOW! LOL. Anyway, here's how it looks:

Mine looks a little odd and I'm wondering if I did it correctly. See the hip curve? It's not true to my measurements. If you look closely, you can see another line that goes inwards at the half hip line, then slopes back out to the hip. THAT'S the real line. It looked so odd that I decided to just draft a regular hip curve. I'll see how it turns out in the muslin.

Also, look at that weird shoulder... My first one had the same kind of strange lack of slope. My shoulder point is about 1/2" - 3/4" higher than the first shoulder line. Is that right?

I tried doing a trial one in 1/2 scale first and ended up with the same issues. Does anyone know if this is "unusual, but normal?"

I measured twice, but had to do it alone since my DH is DIY deficient, and my 5 year old would definitely be no help here. Anyone who could've been helpful was unavailable... Wish I had a sewing partner. I guess the muslin will be next and we'll just have to see if it's right...